Everyone who grew up in Jerusalem about two decades ago wistfully remembers House of Toys, he says – a fantasy land of three stories filled with toys of every kind. Now that Varon’s all grown-up at 30, he and his partners have turned the former toy store into a nightlife playground where beautiful secular adults can make other fantasies come true.

Mental, already eight months old, is appropriately named because people are inclined to go crazy there, what with the alcohol and electronic music.